Sled: Polaris

What's the real difference between these 2 and can they both be used on a 2008 600 switchback? Does one produce lower or higher rpms? Which is the better belt in your experience? thanks.

I do know the 3211080 were use on  XC500, 600, 700 and the 800s according to the Partsland. I also see that '08 Switchback 600s uses the same belts so Im not real sure whats the real different with 1115 belts. Maybe softer compound (lowering the revs) or harder compound (higher revs)   Best way to get the answer to that is talk with a Polaris dealer about it. Anyone? WL

321101080, CVT belt.  We had many problems with that belt for agressive riders. Good for average rider. 28 degrees side angle

3211115 PBO, double cog, ground/sanded finish, 26 degrees side angle  100 miles for breaking, the best belt Polaris is offering.. Extreme duty elt; longest service life, CNC ground edges on each belt, longer break-in period, up to 2 time longer service life compare to the 1122

3211122 Kevlar, double cog, cut finish, 26 degrees side angle.  Increase service life over CVT belt by up to 8 times.  Cut edges belt; consistent like PBO belts, short break-in period, may need 1-2 grams heavier drive clutch weight over CVT belts

Had pretty good result on my shift with the 1122.  With the 1080, normaly 800-1000 miles for me.  2000 miles on the shift with the 1122 without any problem.

Customer who put 4-5 1080 belt after 2000 miles is using the 1115.  4000 miles on his dragon 700 and sll good.

willie i suspect length is the same .just the compound is different and the side angles you talked about.

The length on the 115 is 46.77 vs. 46.625 on the 080.

Something nobody has mentioned yet is the likelyhood of the harder belts wearing the face of the primary to the point where there's a very definite notch in it. I wouldn't have believed it, but have experienced it myself on this Yammi I've been on lately. It uses a hard belt too, and isn't hard on them, but at 4000 miles, I have a very definite "step" in the face of the primary. FYI

I honestly didn't find any polaris clutch with that problem.  I don't think the belt have a harder compound, they are made by a different manufacturer (mitsubishi) and probably use better material, resulting by a very very good durability.

ahicks:

Something nobody has mentioned yet is the likelyhood of the harder belts wearing the face of the primary to the point where there's a very definite notch in it. I wouldn't have believed it, but have experienced it myself on this Yammi I've been on lately. It uses a hard belt too, and isn't hard on them, but at 4000 miles, I have a very definite "step" in the face of the primary. FYI

u are correct have this on my edge and even see it on my race sleds you have to remember on the polaris clutch its very straight then tapers so belts will wear a little groove on the faces right where the angle meets the straight

peace matty r. 

The clutch wares from being tight as in not enough deflection seen it on new and old if your deflection is right it will not ware the clutch .Tuna

If performance is more important to you than durability I have found the 080 to be the better choice. It runs consistant rpm, better backshift, and more top-end pull. I can still get at least 1,200mi out of the 080 too. If you have both belts on hand with relatively the same wear, swap them out, you'll feel the difference right away.